My scolding for the day from a sour young exhibit guard—this time for taking a photo inside the exhibit of a piece of ship emblem embroidery from 1662. It was worth a try. So when I landed at the Courtland Gallery in Somerset House I asked and the guard for permission: He said, with an engaging smile, “Take as many as you like.” You never know. The courtyard was large but mellow, fountains spurting vertical streams of water.
I played the voyeur, observing two fashion shoots, one with a dog!
I was seated near an eastern U.S. American whose voice was jarring to me after all of the quiet, background voices.
Took the underground at rush hour to Sloane Square and walked toward the hotel, stopping at a quaint pub—sat out on the lovely little patio garden—for a Pimms & lemonade—delicious—and an “ultimate burger” not so good—but it served its purpose. Watched some 1st round Wimbledon coverage and read to sleep. Today the banqueting house I think unless the wind blows me elsewhere.
Entry 2, June 27.I am waiting for newly ordered manuscripts to arrive here at the British Library. I hope to complete my readings here today because there is still so much to see before I leave.
Yesterday, I visited the Banqueting House, the only surviving part of Whitehall Palace—then forging on through St James Park—lovely—on to St James Palace, not open to the public. After finally finding the British Library–I made the mistake of going to the British Museum first—I trained/walked to Kensington Palace: Very dark, gloomy in the queens’ quarters.
I stumbled, by chance, into a dusty forgotten room and found the actual bed where Mary of Modena gave birth to her only surviving son, which turned the wheels of exile in motion: The British may have adored Mary, but NO Catholic Prince of Wales in Protestant England!
The king’s household was elegant and well-appointed. So much sexism as I read and visit.
An older female guard told me how spooked she was recently. She thinks she saw and heard the ghost of the nanny of Mary II’s children. I believe it. It is creepy there. Everything decorated for visitors with Walmart-like cutout displays. Still, I saw the bed in which Mary of Modena gave birth to James the III, which started the end of their reign!
I also saw Queen Victoria’s incredibly short, little. dresses, from when she was a young bride.
One of my manuscripts has arrived; I will continue later . . .
Wow, it was the Rules of Household for James II, dated April, 1685. I saw William III’s at Oxford, so this was very cool. I ended my readings at the library with handwritten letters Mary of Modena to her confidante, Lady Bellasyse, after looking at Althorp papers. Too cool.
Back near the hotel, I relished a quiet dinner at an airy Thai restaurant on Hugh Street. Ordering my standard Pimms & Lemonade, I eased back, enjoying the teak woods and fresh décor, sea blue on white. Padma, the owner, told me I was beautiful. Will this be the last time I hear that from someone besides my sweet Tony?
Yes, as I age is a recurring pattern.
I found a payphone right around the corner and called Tony. Great to talk to him. He sounds good.
Returned to my room and was too tired to write but I enjoyed winding down by digitally editing/cropping some of the day’s photos. Wimbledon this week; I listen to coverage in the background—didn’t even have to read myself to sleep last night.
Checked train info for Windsor Palace and Hampton House for tomorrow. I am hoping to do both tomorrow. Talked to a British friend, Chris; we are hooking up Friday, early evening, to go to a gallery opening, then dinner. Saturday a.m. perusing through a 12th-century market rather than do the crowd at Buckingham Palace, which wasn’t even built during Mary of Modena’s time.
My two nights in Cambridge next, in a 17th century College. I am scheduled to read Barclay’s thesis on Monday, one I read about in Nashville. Then back to Oxford, I think, to read in the Bod and regroup.
Entry 3, July 1, Cambridge.
I never journaled after Windsor Castle or Hampton Court. I think I hit a wall of fatigue, after London! I worked at the Cambridge library on day one. I took my 2nd day here off; wandered over to the Buttery for my breakfast coffee. Returned to my room, read, and fell asleep for 2 more hours. Showered, went out and roamed about Cambridge, came back, read some more. Peanut butter and crackers with milk for dinner, read some more! Tomorrow I will read most of the day at the library—very close by—and when I am done, I will take a direct bus to Gloucester Green in Oxford and begin my 2nd week reading there, though now back at my beloved Radcliffe Camera.
Finished reading The Elegance of the Hedgehog. Truly elegant.
